Four Square Hearts Dishcloth

 Here it is, the grand finale of my Summer Dishcloth Series! (Yes, I know it is deep winter at the moment 😅) Hopefully it is worth the wait!

The Four Square Hearts Dishcloth is a variation on the Four Square Dishcloth. It uses the thermal stitch in two colors (one color on each side), but a change is made in the middle of each row from working into the front of the row to working in the back of the row, or vice versa. Colors are changed from front to back and vice-versa to create the heart pattern. The result is a soft and squishy dishcloth that is perfect to dress up your kitchen yet practical enough to use every day.

I have poured a lot of time into this pattern. It took me several tries to get a color switch that looked smooth enough and not warp the heart pattern. Then I had to explain how I did it. I put together a photo tutorial to show you how. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy.

I also came up with two different designs (four leaf clovers and butterflies) using the same technique. The color charts for both of these designs are included at the end of the pattern. They are also included with the pdf version.

You can get the ad-free pdf (complete with the photo tutorial) in my Etsy shop. Purchasing my patterns helps me continue to create new and exciting designs. 

You can also find this pattern listed on my Ravelry Designer page here.

I have been using all the different dishcloth designs I have shared. I would say hands-down my favorite are the thermal stitch versions. They are thick enough to be absorbent, and the rough texture is good for scrubbing. They are well worth all the time I put into designing and making them! Once you start using these, you won't want to go back to any other kind of dish cloth.

Four Square Hearts Photo Tutorial

Step 1: Chain 27 in your main color. This is the color that will peek over the top and bottom on the opposite color side.

Step 2: Holding your chain with the back bump facing down, single crochet into the back loop (top loop) only of the second chain from your hook. You will be working into the other loop on Row 2. Sc into the back (top) loop for the first 13 stitches.

Step 3: After the first 13 stitches (half of the row), begin working into the front loop only (bottom loop). Continue to sc into each bottom loop to the end of the row. In the last stitch, change to your contrasting color.

Step 4: Do NOT chain 1 to turn. Sc in unused loop from the foundation chain below first sc and flo of first sc (tscf). Sometimes this first stitch is a little hard to find. Continue across the  first half of the row (13 stitches) in the same fashion, working into the loop below and the flo of each sc. 

Step 5: After you work 13 tscf, switch to working in the back of the row. Insert hook from the top through the back loop only of the next single crochet (sc) and then through the unused loop from the foundation chain on the back side of your work. Continue tscb for remainder of row. (picture below shows insertion point for next TWO stitches)

Step 6: At the end of this row, do NOT turn your work. Draw up a large loop and then return to the beginning of the row where you dropped your main color. 

Insert your hook in the space in front of the first stitch and draw up a loop with your main color. 

Step 7: Chain 1. Now you will work in the back of the row. Insert your hook into the back loop of the first single crochet, and then into the remaining loop from the single crochet below. Work a single crochet in these two loops (tscb). Repeat this stitch 12 more times (13 tscb).

Step 8: When you reach the center of the row, switch to work in the front of the row for the last 13 stitches.

Step 9: At the end of the row, draw up a large loop in your main color and pick up the dropped loop of your contrasting color. Each pair of rows in each direction will start with your contrasting color worked in the front of the row. 

Step 10: In the next row (Row 3) you will begin the heart pattern. Starting with your contrasting color, work tscf in the first 6 stitches. Then pull up a loop to drop your contrasting color and start at the beginning of the row with your main color. The color that will be worked in the front of the row must be worked first for a smooth color transition. Work tscb in the 6 stitches that were just worked.

Step 11: Pull the working yarn and loop of contrasting color to the back of your work so you can work the next stitch in your MC in the front of the row. Then pick up your CC,

work one tscb in the stitch just worked, pull the loop and yarn of your MC to the back of the row, and continue in CC, working tscf in the next 6 stitches.

Here you can see one MC stitch in the CC row just worked.

Step 12: At the middle of the row, keep going with 6 tscb in the back of the row with your CC. 

Then pick up your MC and work 6 tscb, plus 6 tscf after the middle of the row. 

Step 13: Pull the working yarn and loop of CC to the front of the row and work 1 tscb in the next stitch. Pick up CC, and work one tscf in the stitch just made.

Pull MC yarn and loop to front and tscb in next 6 stitches in CC.

    

Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (6 stitches). 

You can see the bottom points of the first two hearts in the row just completed.

Follow the pattern or the chart (in pattern below) as you work, changing color in this way throughout the pattern.

For the last half of the dishcloth, you will swap colors. The MC will be worked first, in the front of each row, followed by the CC. The last row is worked in MC as described below.

Step 14 (Final Row): Working into the front side of the row, insert hook into the unused loop from the 1st sc in the row below and BOTH loops of the first sc. Make 1 sc in these loops. Repeat for next 12 stitches. Then switch to working in the back side of the row. Insert hook through both loops of the next sc and the unused loop on the back side of your work from the sc in the row below. Make 1 sc in these loops. Repeat for last 12 stitches. This creates a nice finished edge without extra loops. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Four Square Hearts Dishcloth

Crochet Pattern

The Four Square Hearts Dishcloth is a variation on the Four Square Dishcloth. It uses the thermal stitch in two colors (one color on each side), but a change is made in the middle of each row from working into the front of the row to working in the back of the row, or vice versa. Colors are changed from front to back and vice-versa to create the heart pattern. The result is a soft and squishy dishcloth that is perfect to dress up your kitchen yet practical enough to use every day.

Difficulty

⚫ ⚫ ⚫ ⚪ ⚪

Finished Size

Each dish cloth measures approximately 8" (20 cm) by 8” (20 cm). 

Instructions are written using standard US abbreviations. 

Ch - chain

Sc - single crochet

Flo - front loop only

Blo - back loop only

Tscf - thermal single crochet in front of row (see photo tutorial)

Tscb - thermal single crochet in back of row (see photo tutorial)

Materials

Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend (7 oz./200 g; 392 yds./ 358 m)

Color B: #098 Whipped Cream 

Color A: #708 Cloud Nine

Size K/11.5 (6.50 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch markers (optional)

Tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

      

Gauge

Gauge is not important for this project, but if you want your dish cloth to measure 8” by 8”, try to stay at the following gauge:

22 rows/13 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern stitch.

Instructions

With Main Color (MC) ch 27.

Row 1: Sc in blo (top loop) of 2nd chain from hook and the next 12 ch (13 sc). Work the last 13 stitches into the flo (bottom loop) of the chain. At end of row, change to contrasting color (CC). Turn. (26 sc)

Row 2 CC: Do NOT ch 1. Begin thermal sc by inserting hook from the bottom up into the unused loop from the foundation chain, below the first sc. Then insert hook into the flo of the 1st sc. Make 1 sc in both loops (one tscf completed). Work one tscf into each of the first 13 stitches. In the 14th stitch, change to working in the back of the row. Insert hook into the blo and the unused loop from the foundation chain below on the back of your work (one tscb completed. Continue to work tscb in the remaining stitches in the row. (13 tscf and 13 tscb) Do NOT turn. Draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. 

Row 2 MC: Return to beginning of Row 2. Pick up MC by inserting hook into space in front of first stitch and drawing up a loop. Ch 1. Working into the back of the row, tscb in each of the first 13 stitches (see photo tutorial). With the 14th stitch, change to working in the front of the row (tscf). At end of row, draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. Pick up dropped loop of CC. Turn.

Row 3: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 6 stitches. 

MC: Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 6 stitches that you just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work 1 tscf in MC in next stitch. 

CC: Drop MC and pick up CC. Work 1 tscb in stitch just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 6 stitches. Work one tscb into next 6 stitches. 

MC: Drop CC and pick up MC. Work one tscb in each of next 6 stitches, then one tscf in each of next 6 stitches. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work 1 tscb in MC in next stitch. 

CC: Drop MC and pick up CC. Work 1 tscf in CC in stitch just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (6 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (6 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 4: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 5 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 5 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in each of next 3 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of the 3 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 5 stitches. Work one tscb into next 5 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in each of first 5 stitches just made, then one tscf in each of the last 5 stitches just made. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in next 3 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 3 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (5 stitches) in CC. 

MC Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (5 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 5: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 4 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 4 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in each of next 5 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of the 5 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of the next 4 stitches. Work one tscb into next 4 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in each of the first 4 stitches just made, then one tscf in each of last 4 stitches just made. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in each of next 5 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the last 5 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (4 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (4 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 6: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 3 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 3 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in each of next 7 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of 7  stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 3 stitches. Work one tscb into next 3 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in each of first 3 stitches just made, then one tscf in each of last 3 stitches just made in CC. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in each of next 7 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 7 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (3 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (3 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 7: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 2 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 2 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in each of next 9 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of the 9 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 2 stitches. Work one tscb into next 2 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in the first 2 stitches just made, then one tscf into last two stitches just made in CC. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in each of next 9 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 9 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (2 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (2 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 8: Repeat Row 7

Row 9: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 2 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 2 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in each of next 4 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb into the back of each of the first 4 stitches that you just worked in MC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work 1 tscf in next stitch. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

MC: Work 1 tscb in stitch just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 4 stitches. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of the 4 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 2 stitches. Work one tscb into next 2 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in first 2 stitches just made, then one tscf in last 2 stitches just made in CC. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in next 4 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the last 4 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work 1 tscb in next stitch. 

MC: Work 1 tscf in stitch just made. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to front of work and work one tscb in each of the next 4 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 4 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (2 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (2 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 10: (both colors in these rows will be worked simultaneously) 

CC: In CC ch 1. Work 1 tscf into each of the first 3 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC at beginning of row. 

MC: Work 1 tscb into the back of each of the first 3 stitches just worked in CC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in next 2 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscb into the back of each of the 2 stitches that you just worked in MC. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to back of work and work one tscf in next 3 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

MC: Work one tscb in 3 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 2 stitches. 

CC: Work one tscb in each of the 2 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to back of work. Work one tscf into each of next 3 stitches. Work one tscb into next 3 stitches. Drop CC and pick up MC. 

MC: Work one tscb in the first 3 stitches just made, then one tscf in the last 3 stitches just made in CC. Pull dropped CC to front of work. Work one tscb in each of the next 2 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 2 stitches just made. Pull dropped MC to front of work. Work one tscb in each of the next 3 stitches. 

MC: Work one tscf in each of the 3 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop and working yarn of CC to front of work and work one tscb in each of the next 2 stitches. Drop MC and pick up CC. 

CC: Work one tscf in each of the 2 stitches just made. Pull dropped loop of MC to front of work. Work tscb to end of row (3 stitches) in CC. 

MC: Pick up MC and work tscf to end of row (3 stitches). Turn. (See chart for full pattern)

Row 11 CC: Ch 1. Work one tscf into each of the first 13 stitches. Work one tscb in the back of the next 13 stitches. (13 tscf and 13 tscb) Do NOT turn. Draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. 

Row 11 MC: Return to beginning of Row 11. Pick up MC. Ch 1. Working into the back of the row, tscb in each of the first 13 stitches. With the 14th stitch, change to working in the front of the row (tscf). At end of row, draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. Pick up dropped loop of CC. Turn.

Row 12: Repeat Row 11 in each color. Do not change colors at the end of Row 12.

The second half of the dishcloth is worked the same, only the colors will be switched. Instead of working across the row in the CC first, you will work across with the MC first and follow with the CC.

Row 13 MC: With MC (last color worked), do NOT ch 1. Repeat Row 11 CC using MC (instead of contrasting color). 

Row 13 CC: Repeat Row 2 MC using CC (instead of MC).

Rows 14-23: Repeat Rows 3-12 using MC for CC and CC for MC. At end of Row 23, fasten off CC.

Row 24 (Final Row MC): Ch 1. Repeat Row 13 MC, except work each single crochet into the loop below in the front of the row and BOTH loops of each single crochet (for first half of the row) or into BOTH loops and the loop below in the back of the row (for the second half of the row). Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Color Charts

Hearts Design

Four Leaf Clover Design

Butterflies Design

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Copyright © 2021 Sharon Hansen/Yarnmare

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The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Hansen/Yarnmare. This pattern and design are subject to copyright, and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not distribute or sell this pattern or any items created using the directions in this pattern without consent. Please email yarnmare@gmail.com with any questions.