I am finally sharing the last two dishcloths in my Summer Dishcloth Series. Yes, I know that was about 8 months ago! The last dishcloth in the series required some extra TLC, and regular, full-time work duties took over. Getting ready to go back to school required writing plans for three different learning models with explicit explanations on how we would keep our students safe. As one of two COVID-19 planning persons, much of that responsibility fell on my shoulders.
Well the school year is in full swing. We've gone from hybrid to distance and back to hybrid. It's been a bumpy ride, but there's a light at the end of the tunnel.
In the meantime, I have finally had a chance to work out the pattern for the Four Square Dishcloth and the Four Square Hearts Dishcloth (the grand finale to the series - and the reason I started the series in the first place).
The Four Square Dishcloth is a variation on the Two Color Thermal Stitch Dishcloth. It uses the thermal stitch in two colors (one color on each side), but a change is made in the middle of each row from working into the front of the row to working in the back of the row, or vice versa. The result is a four square pattern that is identical on both sides.
This pattern is relatively simple. If you tried the Two-Color Thermal Stitch Dishcloth then this one will be a breeze. There's a photo tutorial below to explain the color change. The Four Square Dishcloth is an important stepping stone for the Four Square Hearts Dishcloth. The basics are the same, but the heart pattern requires a little bit of tricky color changing - although once you get the hang of it you'll be off and running!
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You can also find this pattern listed on my Ravelry designer page here.
Four Square Dishcloth Photo Tutorial
Step 1: Chain 27 in your main color. This is the color that will peek over the top and bottom on the opposite color side.
Step 2: Holding your chain with the back bump facing down, single crochet into the back loop (top loop) only of the second chain from your hook. You will be working into the other loop on Row 2. Sc into the back (top) loop for the first 13 stitches.
Step 3: After the first 13 stitches (half of the row), begin working into the front loop only (bottom loop). Continue to sc into each bottom loop to the end of the row. In the last stitch, change to your contrasting color.
At the end of the row you can see the difference between the first and second half. The right half was worked in the back loop and is ready for tscf. The left half was worked in the front loop and is ready for tscb.
Step 4: Do NOT chain 1 to turn. Sc in unused loop from the foundation chain below first sc and flo of first sc (tscf). Sometimes this first stitch is a little hard to find. Continue across the first half of the row (13 stitches) in the same fashion, working into the loop below and the flo of each sc.
Step 5: After you work 13 tscf, switch to working in the back of the row. Insert hook from the top through the back loop only of the next single crochet (sc) and then through the unused loop from the foundation chain on the back side of your work. Continue tscb for remainder of row. (picture at left shows insertion point for next TWO stitches) Make sure you don't miss the very last stitch. It might be helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every row as you work. It is also helpful to count your stitches as you go to make sure you haven't missed any.
Step 6: At the end of this row, do NOT turn your work. Draw up a large loop and then return to the beginning of the row where you dropped your main color.
Insert your hook in the space in front of the first stitch and draw up a loop with your main color.
Step 7: Chain 1. Now you will work in the back of the row. Insert your hook into the back loop of the first single crochet, and then into the remaining loop from the single crochet below. Work a single crochet in these two loops (tscb). Repeat this stitch 12 more times (13 tscb).
Step 8: When you reach the center of the row, switch to work in the front of the row for the last 13 stitches.
Step 9: At the end of the row, draw up a large loop in your main color and pick up the dropped loop of your contrasting color. Each pair of rows in each direction will be worked first in your contrasting color in the front for the first half and the back of the row for the second half, then in your main color in the back of the row for the first half and the front of the row for the last half.
Step 10: When you have completed 12 rows, your two colors will change position and you will work each row first in your main color and then in your contrasting color. At the end of Row 12 do not change color. Instead work the first pass of Row 13 in your main color (starting in the front side of the row and ending in the back side of the row) and then go back to the start of the row and pick up your contrasting color.
Step 11 (Final Row): Working into the front side of the row, insert hook into the unused loop from the 1st sc in the row below and BOTH loops of the first sc. Make 1 sc in these loops. Repeat for next 12 stitches. Then switch to working in the back side of the row. Insert hook through both loops of the next sc and the unused loop on the back side of your work from the sc in the row below. Make 1 sc in these loops. Repeat for last 12 stitches. This creates a nice finished edge without extra loops. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Four Square Dishcloth
Crochet Pattern
Difficulty
⚫ ⚫ ⚪ ⚪ ⚪
Finished Size
Each dish cloth measures approximately 8" (20 cm) by 8” (20 cm).
Materials
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend (7 oz./200 g; 392 yds./ 358 m)
Main Color (MC): #718 Mai Tai
Contrasting Color (CC) #098 Whipped Cream
Size K/10.5 (6.50 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch Markers (optional)
Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)
Gauge
Gauge is not important for this project, but if you want your dish cloth to measure 8” by 8”, try to stay at the following gauge:
22 rows/13 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern stitch.
Instructions are written using standard US abbreviations.
Ch - chain
Sc - single crochet
Flo - front loop only
Blo - back loop only
Tscf - thermal single crochet in front of row (see photo tutorial)
Tscb - thermal single crochet in back of row (see photo tutorial)
Instructions
With Main Color (MC) ch 27.
Row 1: Sc in blo (top loop) of 2nd chain from hook and the next 12 ch (13 sc). Work the last 13 stitches into the flo (bottom loop) of the chain. At end of row, change to contrasting color (CC). Turn. (26 sc)
Row 2 (CC): Ch 1. Begin thermal sc by inserting hook from the bottom up into the unused loop from the foundation chain, below the first sc. Then insert hook into the flo of the 1st sc. Make 1 sc in both loops (one tscf completed). Work one tscf into each of the first 13 stitches. With the 14th stitch, change to working in the back of the row. Insert hook into the blo and the unused loop from the row below on the back of your work (one tscb completed). Continue to work tscb in the remaining stitches in the row. (13 tscf and 13 tscb) Do NOT turn. Draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook.
Row 2 (MC): Return to beginning of Row 2. Pick up MC by inserting hook into space in front of first stitch and drawing up a loop. Ch 1. Working into the back of the row, tscb in each of the first 13 stitches (see photo tutorial). With the 14th stitch, change to working in the front of the row (tscf). At end of row, draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. Pick up dropped loop of CC. Turn.
Row 3 CC: Ch 1. Insert hook from the bottom up into the unused loop from the stitch below the first sc. Then insert hook into the flo of the 1st sc. Make 1 sc in both loops (one tscf completed). Work one tscf into each of the first 13 stitches. With the 14th stitch, change to working in the back of the row. Insert hook into the blo and the unused loop from the row below on the back of your work (one tscb completed). Continue to work tscb in the remaining stitches in the row. (13 tscf and 13 tscb) Do NOT turn. Draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook.
Row 3 MC: Return to beginning of Row 3. Pick up dropped loop of MC. Ch 1. Working into the back of the row, tscb in each of the first 13 stitches (see photo tutorial). With the 14th stitch, change to working in the front of the row (tscf). At end of row, draw up a large loop and drop it off your hook. Pick up dropped loop of CC. Turn.
Rows 4-12: Repeat Row 3 in each color nine more times. Do not change colors at the end of Row 12.
The second half of the dishcloth is worked the same, only the colors will be switched. Instead of working across the row in the CC first, you will work across with the MC first and follow with the CC.
Row 13 (MC): With MC (last color worked), do NOT ch 1. Repeat Row 2 with MC (instead of contrasting color).
Row 13 (CC): Repeat Row 2 (MC) with CC instead.
Rows 14-23: Repeat Row 13 (except you WILL ch 1 at the beginning of each row). At end of Row 23, fasten off CC.
Row 24 (Final Row MC): Ch 1. For last row, repeat Row 13 (MC), except work each single crochet into the loop below in front and BOTH loops of each single crochet (for first half of the row) or into BOTH loops and the loop below in back (for the second half of the row). Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Copyright © 2021 Sharon Hansen/Yarnmare
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The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Hansen/Yarnmare. This pattern and design are subject to copyright, and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not distribute or sell this pattern or any items created using the directions in this pattern without consent. Please email yarnmare@gmail.com with any questions.
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